Menswear Top Trends F/W 2010

Its not always that you get an opportunity to hear Barbara Atkins, VP for Fashion Direction at Holt Renfrew talk about menswear. Last July, I met Barbara at the Holt Renfrew Fall 2010 Fashion Preview Event in Vancouver. The last time I saw her was in October at L'Oreal Fashion Week in Toronto. Barbara is one of Canada's premier fashion experts. When she says its "In", its "In". 


During the pre-show cocktails, Barbara and I had a brief chat to get re-acquainted. One thing we discussed were her thoughts around the changes in lifestyle and how that impacts the trends we're seeing this season. Not knowing, this was also the first 5-10 minutes of her presentation. Atkins said "People are moving away from formalities. Everything is quick, easy, casual. In fashion, the direction is leaning towards smart casual. Suits and ties, although still nice, are not the norm anymore. Today, its about comfort, ease and intelligence." And on personal style, Atkins gives great advice "Authenticity is your next heirloom. Personal style stems from color and off beat combinations. Have your modern classic pieces, and personalize them with folklore and global decorative inspirations." 


Here are the top Menswear Trends for FW 2010


1) Battle Gear. Military inspirations are seen across all dimensions of wardrobe. From combat boots, to military detailing on jackets and coats, to army green totes (aka "man bags"), this is the theme for the season. 

2) Knit Picking. Cardigans, vests, knit outerwear, urban joggers and toques are just some of the must have knitted pieces for Fall/Winter 2010. Cashmere is still the best when it comes to comfort, warmth and ts soft feel to the skin. Merino Wool is great alternative.

3) Jacket Required. Whether it be tweed or velvet, pinstripe or solid, every man needs a jacket in their wardrobe. Its that one piece when added to a plain white tshirt and jean ensemble makes it a sophisticated and modern trio.Coordinate your jackets with a cool, silk pocket square or fashion forward skinny tie.

4) Jean-ology. Its not a faux pas to wear denim with denim. This season, there'll be a lot of varieties on how denim is treated and worn. You'll see the brave souls mixing denim washes for their tops and bottoms. and some will simply be happy with a flattering pair of distressed denim jeans. This fall/winter dress up or dress down your denim with some of the other trends this season.

So what are my top "Must Haves" for the season? Here's what I'm thinking:

- A slim tailored tweed, herringbone or moleskin jacket.

- A pair of distressed slim boot cut ,dark indigo washed denim jeans

- A pair of vintage or vintage looking leather combat boots

- A 3 button Henley t-shirt

- Accessories: Utility Bag (aka Man Bag), necklaces with unique pendants, slouchy toque, over sized scarf.

Happy Shopping!

Greatest Hits: Banana Republic, where Classic just never goes out of STYLE

If there's one brand that is timeless yet current, its Banana Republic. I've been a big fan of this brand ever since I bought my first dress shirt from them in 2002. I may not have that shirt anymore but I will never forget why I got it. Great quality. Excellent price point. And remarkable details such as the mother of pearl buttons, crisp collar and impeccable tailoring of the shirt.
This same attention to detail still remains today with all Banana Republic products. Its one of my favorite places to shop for those eternal pieces that look good today and 10 years down the road. As proof of that, my first Banana Republic wool trench is still in great shape after 8 winters. 

Since Fall and Winter is coming up, here are my top picks from Banana Republic.


Heritage Timeless Trench Coat: One can never go wrong with well crafted trench coat. The key things to look for in a trench are as follows:


- Fit.Give enough room in the coat to accommodate times when you're wearing a sweater. Make sure the shoulders (coat and actual shoulder) line up. 
- Fabric. There are two main types of fabrics used for coats. Wool works best if you have dry, cold winters. Treated Cotton are great for wet and cold winters. 
- Cut. Trench coats are slimmer now then they were before. For slim fellas, stick with a slimmer cut as opposed to the more traditional, boxier cuts of the trench coat.

Heritage Timeless Trench, $325

Heritage Shawl Style Cardigan: Nothing says warmth better than a nice, comfortable, classic cardigan. Knits are still a must-have this season, and this is worth getting if you don't already have one in your wardrobe. This versatile and character filled cardigan is one of a kind. You can practically dress it up or down, at work or after work. I love the shawl collar, the various shades of gray, and the coziness of this piece. Highly recommended!

Heritage Shawl Collar Cardigan, $158

The Denver Boot. Fall and Winter is never complete with a good pair of boots. Whether its a cowboy boot, a military boot, or a dress boot, you just need to have one in your shoe closet. Over the years, Banana Republic has expanded their shoe collection. "Driving Loafers" are ones that this brand makes really well. This season they brought back the Denver Boot. Once only available in-store, the boot is now available online. I love the softness of the leather and the comfort of the memory foam insole. Just like most boots in the market, this one is not water-repellent. Make sure to spray it with a silicone based water repellent spray which you can buy at your favorite shoe store.

Denver Boot, $160

These items are all available in store and online at http://www.bananarepublic.com.  


Happy Shopping!

Spring/Summer 2010: Accessories to punch up your wardrobe

Color. Texture. Pattern. All of these are elements to making your once boring spring/summer wardrobe into one that is more interesting. Outside of buying that summer plaid shirt, there's a bunch of other things you can do to increase your cool factor. Here are my top picks for this season's MUST HAVE accessories:


The Straw Fedora
Ball caps are out. Beanies are no longer in season. If you want to be the cool guy in town, put a Fedora on your head. First used as an men's accessory in 1919, the fedora has made a return to mens wardrobes in the 90s. Popularized by the likes of Justin Timberlake, Hugh Jackman, Usher and Johnny Depp, fedoras make a great addition to your wardrobe. It brings "cool" to your casual or formal ensemble. 

Eric B Fedora, Goorin Brothers, $40

The Aviator

Also known as Pilot Glasses, Aviator style sunnies fit almost any face. It comes in either a plastic or metal frame, aviators easily be picked up at your local trend store like Urban Outfitters or H&M. If you want to go for the original, RayBan still makes the best aviators in the market today. 

Ray Ban Aviators, The Sunglass Hut, $139.95

Pocket Squares
What is a Pocket Square? Its a piece of fabric, typically silk, that one puts on the breast pocket of one's coat. This simple yet elegant accessory amplifies what was once a bland blazer or suit jacket. If you have a solid color jacket, I would recommend a printed pocket square. If you're wearing a blazer that has a pin stripe or a window pane print, I would suggest a solid color pocket square. And if you're really daring, I would go with a print on print combination.

Plaid Silk Pocket Square, John W. Nordstrom, $39.50

Driving Loafers
One of those pieces from the 80s that have also made a comeback, the driving loafer is the perfect roadtrip shoe. Comfortable enough to be a slipper, functional enough for managing your gas and brake pedals. Available in suede and full grain leather, the loafer can easily be worn with a cream linen suit, a pair of jeans and some good old Bermuda shorts. Definitely a must have this season.

"Air Grant" Loafer, Cole Haan, $148

The Tote 
Also known as the book bag, totes have come along way from the feminine image it once had. Today, men can easily carry a tote like it was an attache or messenger bag. The manly tote is usually very structured, made in leather, canvas or a bit of both. It also tends to have some simple details like rivets, buckles and straps.

Tote with Shoulder Strap, The Brothers Bray and Co, up to $100

Cutler and Gross: To be SEEN rather than To SEE

A trip to London wouldn’t be a complete without a visit to Cutler and Gross, the UK’s premier eyewear designer. With two boutiques in Knightsbridge, London, Vintage and Flagship, it was great to see was this label was up to over the last 40 years.

Vintage Boutique

Flagship Boutique 

Graham Cutler and Tony Gross are the men behind the brand. They are practically responsible for transforming the purpose of eyewear from “to see” to “to be seen”. Their pieces have graced the faces of celebrities like Elton John , Victoria Beckham, Beyonce and among many others.  The name is very much associated to one’s originality and flair. It transcends time. And its client base diverse.

I’ve personally been a fan of the brand since I first saw them at Vancouver’s best eyewear store, Bruce Eyewear. So during my visit to London, it was bound to happen that I take home a couple of pairs. Here are the members to my growing collection of eyewear pieces. If you’re in London, visit their Vintage boutique first, to see one of a kind, special editions pieces that you won’t find anywhere else. And then make a visit to their flagship store to see some unique, modern day collections. If you’re in Vancouver, Canada, come to Bruce Eyewear in Gastown. 

For more information on Cutler and Gross, click here 

For more information on Bruce Eyewear, click here

London Fashion Week: Menswear Highlights

Its been more than a month since my visit to London Fashion Week. The memory still lingers primarily because of the quality of the shows and the lovely people I met. Being a menswear writer, my favorite day was February 24. This is when men with great style and designers with fashion forward ideas step out and converge.

The Vibe. Eclectic. Energetic. Exagerated. The buzz was definitely there. As it was the day for the gents to shine, every guy in the crowd had their own concept of style. From tuxes to colored trousers, military boots to espadrilles, from bow ties to oversized knots, the guys covered it all. Of course, the ladies loved it. Some of them participated in the event by wearing menswear inspired outfits like blazers, boyfriend jeans, and even bowties. Hair Salon Toni and Guy were giving free haircuts to male attendees.

The Shows and Installations. We all know that some of the best menswear comes from Europe, London especially for ones that are more fashion forward and unique. This season was dominated by some up and coming designers who I hope make it to North America. Here are my top picks:

Carolyn Masey. It's not always that you see a female designer successfully create pieces for men. Carolyn is an amazing talent. Her unique attention to detail beats some of her male counterparts, hands down. I spoke to Carolyn after the show and asked her "What is the biggest difference between a male and female menswear to detail." And her response was "Female menswear designer see things in a different light. We know what's sexy. We know what looks good on men. We are bit more daring on what we want guys to wear. Our attention to detail is more meticulous. Our style is more pleasing to the eyes. Male menswear designers tend to put out pretty much the same commercial stuff out there. Boring!" Here are my favorites from her AW2010 collection:

JW Anderson. Relatively new to the industry (label started in 2007), Jonathan William Anderson has created quite a name for himself in the London menswear scene. His unique perspective on style has caught the attention of stockists locally and internationally. He says that the JW Anderson man is one who is "a chameleon, a researcher and open to change. He's kind of a loner. But overall he is obsessed with taste". I couldn't agree more. Check out my favorites from his AW2010 show:

TopMan. Topman Design is a directional premium collection which is stocked online at topman.com, the London Oxford Circus and New York Flagships as well as key international stores including La Foret in Tokyo, Incu in Sydney and Shine in Hong Kong. Creative Director Alister Mackie - AnOther Man, Fashion Director and superstylist - and Gordon Richardson - Topman Design Director all decided to do a solo show as part of London Fashion Week. If you haven't had a chance to browse or shop at their online store, check it out here. This season saw a great showing of unique coats, jumpers and pants. There was a hint of conservatism but also a flash of creativity in the detailing that only a London based brand can do. Belted coats, faux-fur lined collars and contrast piping on jumper pants are just some of the element that caught my eye. Here are my favorites from their upcoming AW2010 line:

London Fashion Week AW 2010 so far....so good.

Its been 5 days now at London Fashion Week. And to say that the fashion here is outgoing or innovative is an understatement. The fashion here is just advanced by North American standards. At some point the key trends and pieces will eventually trickle down to other parts of the world. But if you’re one of those people who want to be different, unique, stand out than the rest of the crowd, London is your town.

Sarah Brown and Harold Tillman, chairman of the British Fashion Council

Photography by Holly Falconer

LFW opened last Friday with Sarah Brown and Harold Tillman, chairman of the British Fashion Council (BFC) doing the honors. One of the unique things about London Fashion Week is the presence of an exhibition which houses local and establish designers and their wares. This gives attendees from around the globe a chance to purchase either individual pieces or place orders for their stores. Esthetica, the BFC’s fashion initiative was also launched that day. This program is London’s epicentre for ethical fashion and practices. Currently with 28 member designers, Esthetica continues to leads the way and prove its strength in the industry.

Photography by Laura Pannack

Now the shows. Menswear doesn’t happen until tomorrow up to Friday. So for now, I’ll talk about some my favorite shows so far and my favorite pieces for  AW 2010.

Paul Costelloe

Paul Costelloe has been showing at London Fashion Week for 15 years. Having opened LFW for the last five, he started the show with a collection that showcases unique materials, unexpected tailoring, and impeccable detailing while still maintaining classic silhouettes for both the men and the ladies. Some of my favorite pieces:

Jena.Theo

Jena. Theo was the other label that I thought had great pieces. Run by Jenny Holmes and Dimitris Theocharidis, these you designers focused on a lot of draping, fabric and new silouhettes for AW2010. With the 50’s as the inspiration era and an almost 3D effect to the way their clothes flow, this label is going a long way. I hope to see their stuff in North America soon. Although I wasn’t a big fan of the styling here are my favorite pieces”:

Sass and Bide

I first caught of Sass and Bride on the MTV show “The Hills” when they did a show in Los Angeles with publicist Kelly Cutrone. Since then I’ve been hoping to see one of their shows live, and I did here at London Fashion Week.

Hailing from Sydney, Australia, designers Sarah-Jane Clarke (sass) and Heidi Middleton (bide) showed a very strong collection this season. Known for their signature clash of the bold, the beautiful and the obscure, Sarah and Heidi had pieces that should be in every woman’s closet. From the Victorian lace details to the clown pinstripe pant and the shark tooth shaped purse, the whole look for Sass and Bide, although chaotic is perfectly placed. My favorite pieces:

Mark Fast

Mark Fast is the “The Canadian that did”. Born in Winnipeg, Manitoba, Mark has gone a long way in the world of fashion here in London. He’s also caused a lot of controversy primarily with the use of plus-size models for his runway shows. A knitter at heart, most of Mark’s pieces is contoured to the body with the use of elastomeric yarns. He is daring in the way he wants his clothes to fit and drape. More importantly, he dares to be different in all aspects of fashion, on and off the runway. My favorite pieces:

The shot that made front page in all fashion media.

Matthew Williamson

Award-winning Matthew Williamson has wowed the crowd again with his AW2010 collection. From coral blues, Victorian collars to the fur wraps, the styling and the clothes themselves were just inspiring. One of the key elements in Matthew’s work has always been that the clothes hug the woman’s body so it shows every curve and line. It drapes almost perfectly, to the point where one thinks that it was made especially for the woman wearing it. My favorite pieces are:

Vivienne Westwood Red Label 

British fashion icon Dame Vivienne Westwood has once again made me want to go back in time, pick out some great pieces in modern history, and wear them today. Like other Westwood shows, the models were all decked out in pale, theatrical makeup, with hair teased and backcombed in different places. The color palette, the silhouettes, the styling, and overall look and feel of the show are beyond amazing. A symbol of organized chaos, Vivienne did well in creating balance among a mixture of plaids, solids, and menswear inspired pieces. To some it can look deshoveled and to others its great Vivienne Westwood. My favorite pieces:

That's about it for my catwalk report. More menswear coverage to follow.

All runway photos provided by Catwalk.com 

New York Fashion Week Fall Winter 2010 - Menswear Highlights

Things were a bit quieter this season in New York. Same time last year the city and fashion week was buzzing with A-list attendees, sizzling runway and off-runway shows, and a vibrant energy. This year, I felt there were less people at the tents (and around them), but also less of a representation for menswear. Perhaps it was the economy. But also perhaps there are a few more celebrities who were away , attending other festivities such as the Winter Olympics in Vancouver. Regardless, there are some very obvious trends that are happening for AW10. Some of them are not so new and are just extensions from last years key pieces.

Trend 1: Cropped Pant and Boots

This is new for the season. Very much a European influence, the crop pants and boot combination is something not every guy can pull off. An evolution of the “stuffed jean in your boot” style, this look will go well with the lanky guy who’s looking to stand out, be daring and different. 

The other key piece that showed up in most of the menswear shows is the boot. Either military, motorcycle, or an oxford boot, having a pair will be necessary to keep on trend. 

Duckie Brown AW 2010

Images by Getty Images

Trend 2: Men in Tights

Very Robin Hood. This trend started late last year. Coming from the whole skinny jean phenomenon, men started to go “skinnier” with their bottoms by shifting to tights. More of a German influence, these tights are built differently compared to the women’s version. They usually feature support panels, sometimes include front openings that resemble flies on jeans, and also have reinforced feet. Again for the uber-metrosexual, this shouldn’t be hard to pull off.

David Elfin AW2010

Images by Getty Images

Trend 3: Fitted Double Breasted Blazers/Jackets

Not really new as we saw a bit of it same time last year. There will be more of it this year. The double breast, although tends to make guys look wider and broader, looks amazing in a fitted cut. Almost resembling a peacoat, it projects a very dapper and clean look. You’ll be seeing various versions of this coat starting September 2010.

Diesel Black Gold AW 2010

Images by Getty Images

Trend 4: Waxed Suiting

Everything is waxed these days. From denim to full suits, waxed fabrics give clothing a bit of shine but also a layer of protection from the elements. Last year, metallic suits were big. This season it will be a bit toned down. Suits will still be tailored (as they always should be), with a hint of shine as a result of the wax treatment.

Calvin Klein AW 2010

Images by Getty Images

Trend 5:  The Hobo Traveller

Multiple Layers, a Leather Back Pack, and Military Boots.  It’s not as simple as one may think. “Oh let me just throw on a bunch of stuff, and then I’m done. The trick is to be able to create balance within the chaos of a few, sometime uncoordinated pieces. This trend is very street wear inspired from the streets of New York, London and even Berlin. Brands like William Rast and Rag and Bone were one of the first labels that embraced this look and made it commercial.

Rag and Bone AW2010

Images by Getty Images

 All in all, AW2010 will be a bit of rehash from last year. Same color palettes and same cuts. What will be different I think will be how guys style themselves. I think the basics and classics will still rule the game, but will be accentuated by some of the trends from the runways. As always, take what works and make it your own.

Next stop, London Fashion Week.